Varanasi is known for its ghats, temples and evening aarti. But very few are aware that this city is also one of the finest silk weaving clusters in India. I did a ghat walk, sat next to the looms, saw the threads being worked upon and asked many questions of the weavers, who answered everything with patience. I came back home with a totally new fascination for that saree. What I learnt, in simple words, from those hours spent at the weaving cluster in Varanasi is mentioned below. The reason that I visited a weaving cluster in Varanasi is that Banarasi silk has a long history. This craft provides livelihood to many families in Varanasi. Therefore, I wanted to see it closely.
Madanpura and the lanes in Varanasi where looms still run
Madanpura is an old neighbourhood known for its weaving homes. The lanes here are narrow and crowded, with bikes squeezing past walkers. I followed a local guide through a small doorway. Inside, the street noise faded. A steady clack of wood filled the room. Several looms stood side by side, each with a weaver bent over it.
How a pit loom in Varanasi actually works
In many regions, weavers use a type of loom known as the pit loom. A pit loom is a loom that is set on the ground. The weaver sits in a pit, creating an elevated position for weaving. The weaver uses his feet to turn the pedals on the loom and moves the shuttle with the help of his hand. The weaver’s work of using both legs and hands is done simultaneously without a break. I tried to keep up with the pace. However, being busy with the task, I lost track of time.
Handloom or power loom: how I learnt to tell the difference in Varanasi
Many shops claim to sell handloom sarees and need customers to understand something about handlooms and power looms. The artisans who wove the sarees told me some tips on how to spot the difference between real and fake products. One of the first characteristics to check is the reverse side of the fabric, wherein handloom weaving is characterised by visible ends of the yarn, while machine weaving looks neat and smooth. It may also help to ask the seller to show you a special certification document. And do not forget to touch the fabric, as handloom silk is soft.
Zari, the metallic thread that makes it shine
The material used for creating beautiful textiles is called zari. Traditional zari is made of silver, which is dipped in gold. Nowadays, many types of zari made of different metals of less value are used. A weaver showed me two kinds of zari; the differences between them are very noticeable. One type shines effectively, while the other doesn’t shine at all.
How long one Banarasi saree really takes
A detailed Banarasi saree is never a quick job. Simple designs may take a week or two. Heavy brocade work can take a month or more. One weaver told me he finishes only a few such pieces each year. I did the maths later. The price suddenly felt very fair.
The weavers behind the cloth in Varanasi
Many weaving families here have practised this craft for generations. Skills pass from parents to children, often starting at a young age. One weaver told me he began helping at ten. He now worries about rising thread costs and cheaper machine copies. Even so, he smiled when he spoke about his work. Finishing a saree still feels like a small victory, he said.
A simple vegetarian break near the lanes in Varanasi
The weaving lane is situated close to one of the best eateries in town. After seeing how the looms work, I stopped for a quick bite of hot kachori and sabzi. There was another shop nearby selling fresh jalebi and lassi. I went there too. Everything I consumed was vegetarian, tasty, and reasonably priced. I stood and watched people around me eat their lunches at the shops.
Finding hotels in Varanasi near the weaving lanes
Staying close to the old city makes weaving visits much easier. The lanes are tight, and cars rarely fit through them. I compared a few hotels in Varanasi before my trip. I picked one within a short rickshaw ride of the weaving area. That saved time each morning. It also gave me a place to rest during the afternoon heat.
Final thoughts
A bit of planning makes the experience much better. The best time to go is in the morning, when the weavers are more energetic and the light is rather good. Do not forget to ask before taking any pictures. Bring cash because many of the smaller establishments do not take credit cards.
I went to the weaving lanes of Varanasi thinking I would learn about silk. However, I ended up learning more about how to be patient. Each saree is a result of weeks of hard work carried out by people who hardly ever get any credit for the work they do. Now I think about the loom, the pedals and the sound of the wood. I bought myself a small scarf and wear it all the time.
